The heat that hit us upon our arrival at
Bahia Del Sol felt like a wrestler’s take-down. Hot, sweaty and like that
start-of-a-fight inside voice that says you are going to
lose.
Our boat had rested on its mooring for
six months and now it was time to wake it up. Each year this means reversing
the week of effort we previously spent on lay-up preparations. It also means
installing the various “boat bits” we have carried from home in our luggage to
remedy the problems developed during the previous sailing season.
Arrived! Back at Bahia del Sol, El Salvador.
Greg checking out the new Bahia Del Sol Marina bar, relocated after the earthquake damaged the bar/restaurant pilings this past summer.
View from Anduril on Bill and Jean's Moorings in Bahia del Sol.
Jose ferrying me and the groceries back to the boat.
It also means discovering new problems
that have developed during 6 months of lay-up. On a boat, the first rule is
that everything, and we mean everything, is subject to failure. This year we were sort-of lucky. The
nearest boat to us in the mooring field had a bad lightning strike (USD$120k
damage) and the boat on our opposite side also suffered significant damage.
All this raised considerable fears when
the navigation and auto-helm system failed to properly boot up. Uh, oh. After
several days of sweaty and frustrating trouble-shooting Greg finally managed to
isolate the problem to an AIS com port gone kaput. We’ll never really know the
cause. Lightning related, or just product obsolescence? A new AIS has been
ordered from Canada and we stand relieved that our troubles are not a lot
worse.
An Engineer's approach to trouble shooting the AIS problem.
Four dingy trips to the fuel dock to fill the diesel tanks using jerry cans.
Ongoing problems with the rubber dingy strip coming unglued.
The water in an estuary is invariably
mucky and murky. One of Greg’s chores was to ream and unclog the underwater
thru-hulls. This required a lengthy snorkel in seeing-eye-dog underwater
conditions. The next day we learned that a 4-metre crocodile had been spotted
lounging around in the estuary and now none of the locals would go swimming.
Ignorant bliss is the finest of all human conditions!
The daily routine starts with an early
rising and coffee. The sound and smell of the second cup eventually wakes
Alice. Sweltering conditions are in full force by 10am so any energetic boat
chores or tasks involving rummaging in the steamy bowels of the boat must be
scheduled for early in the morning. We conclude our daily boat-based activities
with a 4pm dingy ride to the hotel pool, where the sailing community
congregates for gossip and beers.
Some nights instead of meeting at the
pool there are community dinners. These are fun and often include servings of
the national food staple of El Salvador. “Pupusas” are a tortilla pancake made
with corn flour, beans, cheese and sometimes crumbles of pork.
Alice spent a morning helping build the wall for the school on the island. These 4 young heavily armed army guys have been stationed here for a few months guarding the cement blocks. Who would steal cement blocks on a small island? Today the army guys mixed cement while us volunteer cruisers helped the local women and children move hundreds of heavy cement blocks from A to B.
With the boat to-do list mostly whittled
down to items requiring parts, and having avoided both lighting and crocodile
strikes, we decided that it was time for a road trip into the mountains of
Guatemala.
Renting a “carro tÃpico” (Kia Soul in
these parts) we debarked from the parking lot in our under-powered little car,
engine screaming mightily as it accelerated us down the road.
Gregario, vamos rapido!!! A frightening week of Greg driving on narrow roads in El Salvador and Guatemala.
Policia checking that our passports, rental papers, notary letters for permission to use owner's car, and driver's license was in order. Greg smiled and in his best espanol said "Esta bien", and we were on our way.
First stop was the charming
surfer-village of El Zonte where we stayed at a French-Canadian run villa, El Dorado, catering to well-muscled young people with long-hair and tattoos. Millennial
surfer types should take note of this lovely vacation spot. Cool fact: The couple who own the villa were travelling through Latin America when they were 25 years old and established this surf hotel borrowing a bit of money from relatives.
Driving across the border into
Guatemala, if you have a moment of inattention you will miss it. Would they
catch and jail you if you did? We stopped and somehow figured out at which
little office counter we could get our passports stamped.
The drive along our southern coastal
route was curvy but highly picturesque. The whole of driving in Guatemala can
be said to be up, down and all-around: it is known as the “country of
mountains” for damned good reason. With our knuckles often bare on the steering
wheel we made our way to Antigua, a city founded in the early 1500’s and with
many of its buildings partially destroyed in successive historical earthquakes.
The result is a cobble stoned town of well-aged architectural beauty, complete
with interesting ruins.
Awesome views from the roof top of Casa Cristina in Antigua.
For three days we enjoyed exploring the
streets, the “ropes ladder” restaurant and a local Mezcal bar. OK, you’ve
noticed that our bar pictures are fuzzy. Piss off then.
Cafe No Se: Ilegal Mezcal...Donald is a stupid &*#$ fucker.....Bad hombre...
This is a Dance cage (caption provided for those who don't get out and party much).
Lacking a few facts but somehow this shady dude brought in the illegal mezcal from Mexico.
The depredations of our mezcal night
were followed the next day by a leg-warming hike up Volcan Pacaya. Tourist
novelties on the trip included roasting marshmallows in hot volcanic fissures.
Greg roasting me a marshmallow snack.
Hippy-dippy was next on the agenda. Lago
de Atitlan is a huge volcanic crater-lake that requires a precipitous 8,800 ft
ascent up sinuous and narrow mountain roads. This is followed by a
brake-burning descent to the lakeside village of Panajachel.
A quick stop at the Mazan ruins of Iximche.
From Panajachel there are panga-boats
that deliver you into the land of the beautiful people. For those not in the
know, this is a place where the local indigenous people have created tourist
Shangri-la for visiting western lifestyle yogas.
The village of San Marcos la Laguna is set
among coffee bushes, avocado, and banana trees and is the place to see and be
seen. The narrow little walking street up from the dock is non-stop groovy. In
abundance are shops selling beaded jewelry, leather products and embroidered
clothing. Tourist denizens wear dreadlocks, eat in ethical restaurants, enjoy
massages and attend learning establishments dedicated to the location of Qi
body meridians.
There, for $2.50 Greg went for a workout
in a local gym while Alice had a $45 spiritually enabling massage. Despite
being a little overwhelmed by all the bliss, we admit to having kind of dug the
vibe.
Lago de Atitlan: Beautiful, spiritual, cosmic, vegan, non-gluten, plant based smoothies, and Mayan abdominal massages with past-life regression. Alice played it safe and had a Swedish massage.
All good things do end. Leaving the
lake, our trip back to El Salvador meant 10 hours of driving so we decided to
break up the trip with another night in Antigua before the next day’s
picturesque drive along the Ruta de Flores to the coffee industry town of
Ataco. There we caught a night’s rest and in the morning stocked up on beans.
A lovely stop at Hostal Juares, Ataco.
Hmmm.....that is enough grass for a yoga workout.
Miles of downwards sloping mountain roads dropped us the next day into the metropolis of San Salvador. Our final road trip day was spent in a shopping spree for the boat.
So, the real reason we go on road trips is so we can sleep in a bed like this instead of......
..........our boat bed.
Provisions now being abundant on the
boat, it is soon time for a new sailing adventure. We have concluded that we
will be southward bound, but nothing further about our route has been decided.
Weather and perhaps the whims of friends will help to dictate our path. Rob
& Debra on Avant are also soon south-bound and we hope to share an
anchorage or two with them as they head towards the Panama Canal.
