Anduril Sailing Blog: Salida mas del Norte (apologies to Spanish speakers)

At this time of year in the Sea of Cortez, so we are told and so we read, it is time to expect the change of seasons to colder air and the onset of northerly winds. Being as we are heading north, this means life can suck for a sailing boat that needs to bash into headwinds and waves.

As we hoist anchor, ahead of us are our new friends Ed and Linda Harms. Mitochondrial DNA analysis may one day reveal a common ancestral heritage to Greg and Ed, but for now they are adopted as newfound cousins, and great fun to be around too. Time to catch up to their boat with a beat to windward.

Morning was lumpy and winds were brisk, but as we closed the coast the seas flattened. Greg tends to love sporty sailing conditions and Alice not so much, so this improvement in sea condition (in case any of you care) trended marginally towards our future marital success. Poking our nose in the famed bay of Isla San Francisco as a possible anchorage, we saw only white caps, so onwards another 10 miles we went to San Evarista, where our friends were keeping the anchorage there warm for our arrival. It was a lengthy but nice sail: wine and appies were then enjoyed, followed by the night sounds of wind in rigging. Dreams again. And the following night too. There is no leaving to the North when the winds blow hard! We enjoyed the charming palapa bar on the beach, Alice created our seashell memento leave-behind and we waited for calmer weather.

The 3^rd day brought early light airs and a 5am departure for the trip to Agua Verde. A calm motor sail ensued with both of us getting an off watch along the way to soothe the early rising. Agua Verde is a lovely spot and we snorkelled and enjoyed a walk along the winding hillside road separating the coves to the small townsite. We spent a few pesos in each of the two village tiendas and then enjoyed “only customer” privileges in the smallest beach palapa of Alice’s and my so far limited cruising experience.

With more northerly winds in the forecast, we chose to beat (pardon the pun) the stronger winds to come and head for Puerto Escondido. Another excellent sail to weather, all in one tack. Winds gusting to nearly 30 we pinched and feathered a single reefed main and shortened jib to stay just windward of some rocks and then were able to crack off and fly on a close reach to the entrance of Puerto Escondido. A real fun sail which we both enjoyed. Flat water all the way!

We settled in for 3 days here with winds blowing in from the north and have awakened to settled weather, so we are now off to range further to the north and see what we might see.

Greg n Alice