Transit from Chiapas was an uneventful 39
hours long with dolphins and birds. We were pleasantly surprised to spend about
half of that time with mostly favourable winds.
A brown boobie hitched a sunset ride on our radar mount and kept a close
eye on Alice during her night watches. With
the morning came another nearby flying boobie and our bird (nicknamed Gordon)
departed his perch with a sunrise squawk.
Arrival at Bahia del Sol involves crossing
an estuarial bar where great big breakers crash into the beach and only an
experienced local knows what path over the bar avoids the disaster of a
grounding. Trying to find your own track
into the estuary, especially in a deep draft boat like ours would be the height
of stupidity – so upon our 4am arrival we dropped anchor in 35 feet to wait (and
sleep a little) for an 8am high tide and the arrival of a guide to tell us
exactly where to go.
Morning brought an overnight increase in
the surf and from our roadstead anchorage the unbroken view of breaking seas over
the bar was daunting indeed. Choosing
faith in a local guide’s experience over one’s natural boating caution feels a
little like praying. “Follow us in at
full throttle” said the guide and so through the foaming sea we went. Moses did not appear, but we might have
missed him as our attentions were otherwise occupied with steering the boat and
watching the depth sounder, which bottomed out at 12 feet – not bad.
Riding in the guide-boat to welcome us was
our good friend Pamela Bendall who, with her partner Henry, is a frequent
boating denizen of the estuary here. As
we landed on the dock of the hotel we were greeted with a crowd of welcoming cruisers,
handed a cold rum-fruit punch and introduced to the waiting Immigration Officer
and Capitania de Puerto. With a few short
steps to an office above the docks the paperwork to complete our entry into El
Salvador was a friendly breeze.
We chose to first spend two days enjoying
the comforts of a dockside tie-up proximate to the hotel bar with pool before
heading off to swing in the nearby mooring field. Cruisers arriving at Bahia del Sol are
greeted by the extraordinarily friendly Bill and Jean Strain, retired US
expatriates who have established themselves on a lovely estuarial island estate
that overlooks a mooring field they manage.
Bill and Jean function as enthusiastic greeters and also as fonts of
local knowledge – no matter the obscurity of the desired service, with a radio
call on channel 16 the answer will be at hand. It bears mentioning that this
amazing service is also frequently offered in discussion at nightfall on their
private dock with cold Margaritas in hand. If in your imagination all this
sounds a little like paradise you would not be misled.
A four mile dinghy ride daytrip brings you
to the charming restaurants and tiendas of Herradura (yes, like the tequila and
also the Spanish word for horseshoe). The
journey feels a little like Conrad’s description of a trip up the river Congo,
but instead of heads on sticks to greet your arrival you are served cervesas
and comidas.
The cruisers here, spearheaded by Bill and
Jean, have carried out all sorts of local development work with the local island
dwelling people. Among B&J’s many
fundraising and development initiatives: water cisterns to store seasonal
water, safe outhouses, energy efficient cook-stoves, and encouraging schooling
for the local children. Pamela B has
also been instrumental in working with the Rotary Club, organizing and fundraising to assist the local community in cleaning
up their beaches. Like developing
nations all over the world, one of the great blights of progress are plastics
that have polluted their communities, roads, rivers, lakes, estuaries and
seas.
A week soon disappeared as we worked on things to do (boat maintenance of course),
visiting with other cruisers and lounging in the estuary and learning about places to visit in El Salvador. Next up: an
El Salvadoran road trip.
Greg & Alice
"Gordon" hitching a 12 hour ride through Guatemalan waters.
A pretty sunset before night watches begin.
Waiting to cross the bar into Bahia del Sol.
Guiding us over the bar. Hi, Pamela!
Two comfy days at the Bahia del Sol Resort.
Our arrival was a good excuse for the cruisers and expats to get together for pool time and dinner.
Our view of Isla Cordoncillo from the La Palma Mooring field.
180 liters of water delivered to our boat.
Appies and drinks with Bill and Jean and cruisers on Isla Cordoncillo.
A school competition to raise litter awareness.
In all fairness to Greg, he did not order the turtle egg dish. He was offered one from a local's plate and guiltily admitted it was delicious. Do not eat turtle eggs! It is illegal and turtles are protected.
A bus trip into Zacatecaluca to get Sim cards and a Claro data plan.
A dingy ride to Herradura.
Tie up at the restaurant and enjoy the Suprema cerveza and whole grilled garlic fish.
Beach walks with Pamela and Henry.
One of the beaches cleaned up by the Rotary Club beach trash project. Thanks to Pamela for initiating the project. We like to fill a few bags every time we beach walk. There is still trash but not like before.
Hanging out at the beach shacks with the VHF Radio. 1 boat leaving and 3 entering today. Unfortunately, the window closed and the final boat had to sit another 24 hours at anchor before crossing the bar.
Over the bar!!!
Panga taxi ride with disco speakers blaring music at 25 knots. Woo hoo!
Calm night on the mooring ball.
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