Los Animales

Costa Rica is a lovely country. We cannot pretend to know whether it was the result of a blessed series of historical events or simply a matter of good government over time, but Costa Rica has made commendable strides in protection of their exotic natural environment. What is undeniable is that compared to any of their Central American neighbors, they have done a massively better job with environmental protection.

From Mexico all the way to Nicaragua, trash of every kind is seen in depressing profusion all over the roads, countryside, rivers and beaches. Then you arrive in Costa Rica, where trash is barely to be seen. To be sure, less poverty probably plays a big role in this difference, but this observation does not give adequate credit to their differences in attitude. Costa Rica has for several decades focused heavily on development of their tourist industry and this has lifted their economy. Yet they seem to have understood far earlier and better than their neighbors that strewn trash would be poison to not just their tourism, but also to their land.

Rightly famed for its verdant forest jungles and exotic animal sight-seeing, the cycle has proven to be a virtuous one for Costa Rica. Tourists, European ones especially, noticed and praised Costa Rica for its many protected parks and its clean streets. The government responded with additional parkland declarations and a garbage collection and recycling system that is far superior to any of their Central American neighbors.

The result for tourists is access to untrammeled beauty. In the dense jungles and seas of Costa Rica there are creatures galore. Plants, fishes, birds, insects and animals are everywhere to be seen and the existence of all this life provides a beacon of hope that the declining health of our planet is not a forgone conclusion.

This was our second tour of Pacific Costa Rica, having last year sailed south as far as Bahia Drake (pronounced “Drack-eh” in these parts). This year we again stopped at this lovely place on earth before carrying onwards to Golfito, in southern Costa Rica.

Traveling southbound through Central America it should not be a surprise to learn that there are fewer and fewer sailors willing to range so far from home. Unlike the busy anchorages of the Pacific Northwest, there are more often than not no other cruising boats at all.

Our outermost destination this season will be the western islands of Panama, where we have now arrived. Our sailing companions on Avant are this season bound for the Panama canal and we, late in the season, for southern Mexico. So in about two weeks time we will have to bid our friends good passage and head in opposite directions. But for now we continue to enjoy each other’s company and the support that comes from knowing if problems develop on the boat there is someone to lend a hand.

And now for the photos....

   Avant and Anduril crew awake early to dingy ashore and explore the Curu Wildlife Refuge.  We spotted deer, falcons, white faced capuchins, spider monkeys, coatis, and parakeets.

Lunch with Henry and Pamela at the Hook Up Bar at Herradura.

Punta Quepos offered a beautiful swimming beach with a resident sloth; a restaurant with pool was a short walk up the hill.

Anchored off Manuel Antonio National Park we swam and kayaked ashore (kayak to be temporarily confiscated by Park Rangers) to explore.  Sloths, white faced capuchins, howler monkeys, toucans, coatis, iguanas, agoutis, and spider monkeys were all to be seen.

Next, we anchored at Bahia Drake and enjoyed the jungle river dingy trip, Restaurante Amapola, a diving and a snorkeling trip to Isla del Cano. Avant went on a guided excursion to Corcovado Park.

Our last stop in Costa Rica was Golfito.  We stocked up on groceries and duty free alcohol.  We experienced the intensity of our first heavy ITCZ rain storm.

One of many confiscated semi submersible submarines used for drug smuggling.